Bluegrass Gardens        Farm & Nursery





 Going to break this down into different segments dealing with several different topics I hope will be of some value to you, our customers to help you have  success with your daylilies and to learn from a few mistakes we have made along the way. If you have any questions, feel free to email us. Thanks for all of your patronage making Bluegrass Gardens your choice for beautiful daylilies.  

                                                     Here are the 3 classes of Dormancy for Daylilies:











  Daylilies have been fairly disease free here in this country for most of their existence until recently when the pathogen called  Puccinia Hemerocallidis  (Daylily Rust) which was first found on daylilies in the U.S. in 2000. Since then, it has run rampant and has spread to almost every one of the lower 48 states and Hawaii. Although we have not experienced rust in our nursery as of yet, I have done some research in some local area gardens that were infected and found that over time the plants do adapt to it and it seems as though subsequent outbreaks are not near as severe as the initial ones. I think people in general are afraid of what they don't understand and after seeing rust at it's worst I have came to the conclusion that it has been blown way out of proportion.

   Here are a few facts I have witnessed with the rust:

 1. Daylily rusts will NOT kill the plant.

 2. Since outbreaks usually occur AFTER bloom season it really doesn't affect what we love so much about our beloved flower....The blooms!!

 3.Daylily rusts will NOT over winter without a host plant Patrinia to carry on the life cycle.

 4. It has been my experience in our area of the country that the spores will not winter over.

 5. Cutting foliage back to the ground and spraying with a good fungicide is usually all that is needed to control rusts and this can be done AFTER bloom season when a lot of daylily foliage is looking ratty anyway.

 I believe once more and more people encounter rusts and see that it's really not what all the hype made it out to be, that gardeners will stop worrying so much and start enjoying again. 

     For more detailed information on Daylily Rusts go  Here  A wealth of info is on those pages that will be helpful to you. If you still have questions about rust please email us and we will do our best to answer your questions.


      Daylilies for the most part have only a few pest. Some of which do foliage damage and others that can do the real harm and eat the crown which can be devastating to the daylily plant and in some cases kill it. 

      The foliage damaging pests are for the most part Aphids, Thrip, and later in the season the grasshoppers.

      Out of the 3 mentioned, the grasshoppers are the least of my worry's as they usually show up late in the season and limit the damage to mainly the leaves.

      Aphids and thrip on the other hand, can cause some serious problems to the center new growth area of an emerging daylily. When they start attacking the new tender growth, they suck the juices out of the leaves, and later the buds twisting and contorting them causing bloom problems and general growth problems. This can also leave the daylilies wide open for a disease or fungal outbreak. These pests can be readily controlled with a number of pesticides.  I usually have to spray one time for them in the spring until the ladybugs hatch out then they voraciously eat them within a mater of weeks. 

                          Spring Sickness and Crown Rot:                                  

    This is a problem that is highly debated as the cause. It is my belief that the two are caused by the same problem. It's my opinion that the Bulb Mite or Crown Maggot as I refer to them are the main culprits here and that Spring Sickness is just the pre-cursor to crown rot which will eventually kill the whole plant.

    I don't know what causes infestations on some varieties while others planted directly beside the infected ones go un-scathed....

    One of the best indicators of these attacks comes in early spring when the new foliage is growing. If you start to see ragged and seemingly torn up foliage as it grows, this is a firm indicator that an infestation is taking place.

    If it is left untouched the next sign you may see is yellowing and withering foliage coming from the center of the fan where green vigorous foliage should be present. Once this reaches this level crown damage has usually started and it may be too late. One radical way to try and save the plant is to dig it and wash it off and start removing with a knife or other sharp tool the mushy parts of the crown. Most of the time a strong ammonia smell will be present and then you know the little maggot is not far behind. Most times you will find one or more of the tiny little creatures imbedded in the crown doing the damage. Remove all of the mushy parts and determine if the plant is worth saving. If there is some good solid crown and root left chances are you may save it. 

     Try soaking in a bleach solution and submerge the entire affected area for 10-15 minutes and then wash off with fresh water and replant to proper depth in good loose, fertile soil. You will usually be able to tell if your endeavors paid off within a week or two with new growth signaling success.

Other problems:

   A few other problems that can occur with daylilies are as follows:

 1. Planting the wrong depth. 

 2. Planting to late in the season.

    Daylily Parts   

Illustration courtesy of the AHS.